What grows out of our head and has the potential to be the color of a banana?

You got it! Our hair. The cuticle and cortical layer of each hair is yellow. Darker the natural hair the darker the yellow and the lighter blond you are naturally, the paler the yellow. OK, so we aren’t all walking around looking like yellow finches.

What makes our natural hair brown, red, blond or black?

There are 2 colors of melanin stored inside of the cortical layer, called Hue-melanin and Pheo-melanin. One is a red melanin and the other is black. The darker our natural hair the more black melanin you carry in the cortical layer.  But, that does not mean the pale ashy blond has no black melanin, it just means that Hue and Pheo are paler. The black tends to be a shades of gray and the red is a flatter red. No not pink!

So why does our hair tend to have this red or gold tone to it?

Because the first melanin to dissipate when hit with heat or H2O2 (peroxide) is the black melanin. So, we are left with red melanin inside a yellow cutical and cortical layer. and what does red + yellow = ORANGE! Different shades of orange from dark red brown to orange gold to gold to yellow.

What if I don’t want any warmth in my hair?

Good luck! Stay out of the sun, by living in a cave. Who doesn’t look good with a little warmth in their hair ,eyes or body? Warmth is what your hair donates to living, except for black or pale blond hair. So these are things I suggest:

• Shampoo and blowdry your hair every 2nd or 3rd day.
• Wear a hat when in the sun.
• Use sunscreen hair care products. (ask me I’ll investigate for your hair type/price range)
• Ask your colorist to combine a green. neutral and blue based tint to do your brown hair.
• Lastly, Understand your own hairs color donates THE WARMTH!
• Hair color put on by you or the colorist only controls, uses or lightens the warmth you donate.
  

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I forgot to take a picture of this client’s EMERALD GREEN hair. So imagine that you are in the land of Oz. Yep, that’s how green! She didn’t even know about the unwanted “green” in her hair until her daughter said, “Mom, do your know your ends of your hair are green in the back of your head?” Her long hair framing her face was not green just the top long layers of highlighted long hair was green. Let’s call her Genny. Genny called the salon in a panic, feeling humiliated for walking around for an entire week with green hair ends.

Please don't roll in the grass!

How did she happen to acquire “green” hair?

Blonds always have to safeguard their hair against absorbing chemicals into their hair from a swimming pool or jacuzzi. The chlorine from the pool and the heat from the sun react together to change bleached hair green. Bleached hair from the sun or from highlighting have only a pale yellow color (hopefully) left in the hair structure. this pale yellow to white  is a great canvas for the chemical reaction of “green”.  But, Genny hadn’t been in a pool or jacuzzi.

So how did she acquire this “green” hair? Genny was in Tahoe for the weekend and decided it was too beautiful not to get some outdoor exercise. So being tired from biking and finishing her heavy ride by a golf course, Genny decided it was too beautiful of a day not to enjoy the bright sun, blue sky and puffy clouds roll by. She opted to enjoy looking up via the support of the golf course grass. Yep, that’s right, now we know what it means to be grass green. Can you believe that, the land of clear skies, great mountain air and crystal blue water, golf courses in Tahoe  spray their grass to be greener.

What’s Genny to do?

Great color for grass!

That’s right call me, her hair color mixologist. What will I do for her without harming her hair further? By this appointment her hair has faded somewhat, which means her hair will not hold onto the green chemicals for very much longer. All I have to do is hasten their exit with a shampoo, bleach and peroxide combo to the areas of the hair that were severely attacked. the after shampooing the hair with a clarifying shampoo, I highlighted, low-lighted and toned her hair. The toner was an additional color green neutralizer, because it was was a light beige blond toner with a low volume peroxide. The toner had a hint of red in it to counteract the hint of “green” remaining. then to preserve the integrity of her hair and replace moisture, Genny was given a conditioning treatment.

Voila!

Genny left feeling relieved, happy and feeling good about herself!

(I knew that you can get grass stains from sliding on the grass but, I never in a thousand years, realized that golf course grass could turn your hair green. Let’s add that to list list of “Don’ts for Blondes”.)

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Is it at the ends, the midshaft, or at the root of your hair? Is it around you hairline?

Could she have some hair breakage? YES!

Ends…

If it’s at the ends, perhaps you have not had a hair cut in over 6 weeks. Get a haircut and a moisture treatment and then condition your hair appropriately at home. Condition from midshaft through the ends. Rinse only for 10-15 seconds. Always blow dry at the scalp first before even attempting to dry the ends.

Midshaft….

If your hair is breaking at the midshaft, perhaps you went through some severe stress or… Do you wear ponytails alot? The stress from the band on your tail could cause hairs to break.

Scalp….

Lastly, is your hair breaking at the scalp? Again, personal stress could be the culprit. Poorly applied hair color or lightner could stress the hair. Also if you are drying your hair with a high powered T3 type dryer, concentrating the nozzle in one area could cause extreme bleaching and weakening of the hair. I did it to my own hair and I am a professional. Be extremely careful!

If you have hairline breakage, that hair tends to be finer, thus perhaps weaker and maybe the type of brush and dryer you use are too strong for that hair. Sometimes using a fine boar bristle brush and low heat and air strength is the best for the hair line.

Other recommendations……

Don’t shampoo your hair every day. If you must try this…Get a shower cap. In the morning, before you get into the shower dampen your hands from the shower rub them in your hair (where you have bed head) put on the cap. The heat while you shower and the moisture from inside the shower cap will reinvigorate your hair. Then, when you go to rearrange your style the hair will respond almost like you had just washed it.

As far as a styling product for stressed out hair ends, apply a serum to the ends. 3 pumps into the palm of your

All long or short ends need moisture reinforcement!

hand while the hair is wet, 2 pumps prior to ironing your hair and 1 pump to protect the ends from our drying environment.

Hope this helps
sandy [at] stylelikeapro [dot] com
and at Phoenix Salon and Day Spa

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