May

22

2010

Here is a New Approach to Healthier Haircolor “part 3″ of 3Products..

Posted by Sandy | Comments (0)

Category : Ammonia free haircolor, Hair color, Uncategorized

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

But, first a Haircolor History Lesson by L’OReal.

Impressive if I must say so….

  • 1909 -(over 100 hundred years, yowsa!) Eugene Schueller, L”OReal’s founder created his first hair dye formula named Aureole, using a concoction of non-harmful chemical formulations. the hair dyes were a real breakthrough of subtle shade ranges versus the bright and artificial look of other methods on the market.
  • 1929- to out bid the competition, Schueller looked for ways to develop a non toxic dye that could penetrate the hair’s fiber. Using a previously registered patent, he compounded a group on fast penetrating dyes called paradiamines, called Imedia.
  • 1952- I guess somewhere in between these 2 time frames L’OReal Professionnel was created and by this time more patents revealed a direct dye solution, called Re’ge’ Colour.  Are your eyes glazing over yet? This innovative formula allowed the dye to sit on the hair surface with the fadage occuring after 6-8 shampoos. These also proved to be easy color applications for professionals.
  • 1978- We are getting to the core of this info now! GROUNDBREAKING TECHNOLOGY…. L’OReal  designs the FIRST haircolor  that protects the hair while it colors it! It’s again, another new patent for Ionegene-G which penetrates through the cuticle and cortical layers to the core to protect them during and after the tinting process. The color formula to benefit from this is known worldwide as Majirel.
  • 1986- The  first demi-permanent tint solution Diacolor. Contains no ammonia, as do the traditional permanent oxidative dyes. But it could only BLEND away up to 50% white hair.
  • 2004- We are getting closer! This is when the inhalation factor for colorists/stylists could improve in the work place. Platinium Lightner, a paste versus the dusty powder lightener/bleach came on the market the market has been revolutionized with the FIRST LIGHTENING PASTE! this paste is protected, count them not 1, 2, 3 0r 4, but 5 patents. It leaves the hair softer, shinier and preserves the hair using Nutricide(TM). No more dusty powders, yeah!
  • TODAY there are over 628 patents, 5000 new formulas every year and advanced research has synthesized 120 molecules. this is where INOA enters center stage! INOA ( Innovative No Ammonia) first permanent NO AMMONIA hair dye/tint. And it is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!

WHY DO I LIKE LOVE IT?

I have to tell you that I saw “my”,  ok,  INOA haircolor on a client last weekend on a cloudy gray day.  the color was so natural, it looked like it grew out of her head. Both friends commented on her color, prior to me saying anything. It felt like I was experiencing telepathy between the 3 of us.

The color coverage of up to 100% is a real statement. INOA colors white hair as well as any traditional tint. Because of the oil-delivery system INOA tint does not stain the hairline facial skin. I no longer have to put a protectant around the face. Oh so nice for both the client and myself.

The shine is unbelievable wherever the color is placed, like at the roots and then if you pull it through the ends (at the right times).

The silky feel of the hair does not require additional conditioning after the cleansing shampoo. Wow, the best feel.  the stylist should let clients  feel their hair for softness and silkiness while their hair is wet. 

I’ll be interested to report back  you my findings about whether the the hair goes back to  virgin-like  after 5-9 tints.

I think as long as you have a knowledgeable colorist who can translate your color formula from one color line to the next, I say INOA is worth the extra cost. Switching within L’OReal color lines is so easy.

May

03

2010

Four Things You Didn’t Know to Stay Young At Heart And Hair

Posted by Sandy | Comments (2)

Category : Hair color, Rejoice in our abilities, Style Like A Pro DVD Series, hair styling

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Well, that’s a deep subject, hmm…

My mom is who I should have been relating about all along.  And believe me our relationship reaches deep and sometimes murky.  I love her to the nth degree, but we are total opposites. Or, maybe we are so alike we butt heads. Only a good counselor (on my part) knows for sure!

My mom can no longer drive due to her license being taken away at age 84 for the safety issue of Macular Degeneration. She can only see through the periphery of each eye. My mom can read with glasses, a magnifier and under full spectrum lighting. My Mom goes about her day as if she is fully sighted, never a complaint about it.

But, what does this have to do with hair?

Determination, focused on a goal of looking good and feeling younger at heart. E.L. has always gotten her hair done early in the day, every 2 weeks before the 60’s hit.  Now she goes for a haircut and color every 4 weeks. Now how does she get there? Sorry to say I live in CA and she lives in PA, so I cannot take her to the stylist. Yes, it’s a small town, but it is way too far for her to walk. Can her brother come and take her? Sure, but at 8:30AM, she needs him for more non-routine appointments. Mom has worked her magic to stay feeling young at heart.

So what happened?

Mom’s hairdresser has been picking her up every 4th Thursday on her way to work. And the day before her appointment Mom calls the county bus system to arrange to be picked up at the salon to come home, feeling younger and looking better! Now that’s what I call integrated independance! It takes a village to support us all.

My Conclusion….

  • We can never take any body part for granted. Eat, sleep well and exercise mind and body.
  • Make lemonade with lemons. You know what I mean.
  • Sweeten our life by being lovingly involved in others lives.
  • Always find the time to care for our hair and this action will keep us looking and feeling younger!

Apr

16

2010

What Everyone Ought to Know About “THEIR” Hair Color

Posted by Sandy | Comments (5)

Category : Hair color

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , ,

Oh pretty, Banana yellow

What grows out of our head and has the potential to be the color of a banana?

You got it! Our hair. The cuticle and cortical layer of each hair is yellow. Darker the natural hair the darker the yellow and the lighter blond you are naturally, the paler the yellow. OK, so we aren’t all walking around looking like yellow finches.

What makes our natural hair brown, red, blond or black?

There are 2 colors of melanin stored inside of the cortical layer, called Hue-melanin and Pheo-melanin. One is a red melanin and the other is black. The darker our natural hair the more black melanin you carry in the cortical layer.  But, that does not mean the pale ashy blond has no black melanin, it just means that Hue and Pheo are paler. The black tends to be a shades of gray and the red is a flatter red. No not pink!

So why does our hair tend to have this red or gold tone to it?

Because the first melanin to dissipate when hit with heat or H2O2 (peroxide) is the black melanin. So, we are left with red melanin inside a yellow cutical and cortical layer. and what does red + yellow = ORANGE! Different shades of orange from dark red brown to orange gold to gold to yellow.

What if I don’t want any warmth in my hair?

Good luck! Stay out of the sun, by living in a cave. Who doesn’t look good with a little warmth in their hair ,eyes or body? Warmth is what your hair donates to living, except for black or pale blond hair. So these are things I suggest:

  • Shampoo and blowdry your hair every 2nd or 3rd day.
  • Wear a hat when in the sun.
  • Use sunscreen hair care products. (ask me I’ll investigate for your hair type/price range)
  • Ask your colorist to combine a green. neutral and blue based tint to do your brown hair.
  • Lastly, Understand your own hairs color donates THE WARMTH!
  • Hair color put on by you or the colorist only controls, uses or lightens the warmth you donate.

Apr

02

2010

Here Is A Method to Help You Chose THE Hair Color for You

Posted by Sandy | Comments (0)

Category : Ammonia free haircolor, Hair care, Hair color, men's hair color

Tags: , , , , , ,

Ahh…… the green movement has hit the hair color industry! NO, not really. But, there is a new product that has just been released to a few markets, soon to be in all our salons by May, 2010.

AMMONIA … is it all that bad? The Answer INOA.

What we are talking about is Ammonia in hair color, especially permanent hair color. They say that ammonia dries out the hair and leaves  the cuticle (outside layer) jagged. Jagged means that the cuticle looks like tree bark and it doesn’t reflect light, in other words SHINE. Permanent haircolor is usually just put on the scalp to change the color of hair at the regrowth. Then the midshaft and ends are done with demi or semipermanent hair color that has low ammonia or an ammonia derivative, MEA. This ingredient has been around for a long time. I used a Clairol hair color called Second Nature, ten years ago for semi-permanent coverage and toning the ends. Most of the time products with MEA only blend the white (non-pigmented) hair away. But, they don’t irritate the scalp as much or tend to have a noxious scent if you are in a poorly ventilated environment.

Women who have sensitive scalps and sense of smell, will request a non-ammoniated hair color. Naturcolor by Herbaceuticals can be a great product for this type of women, again only blending the white hair away and permanency is limited. There’s also Organic Color Systems by Herb UK. I know very little about this color system.

Newest and Greatest is

INOA  from L’Oreal Professional. Or could it be that L’Oreal Professional have the best marketing budget? The verdict is out. right now. I am excited to try INOA, which is short for Innovation No Ammonia. So let’s ignore the name and try this new product that has 3 steps not just 2 and requires a whole new way of mixing. The cost and time will be a minimum of 10% higher. This, of course, will be passed onto the clients. But, not to have ammonia on their scalps and to not smell the color could be heaven.  A lot of my clients emphatically stated they would pay the higher price to “green”  their hair. I’m willing to give it a try. To carry the whole line? Perhaps, if it banishes 100% of the most stubborn grey hair and leaves a long lasting silkiness that I can notice,